Day 28: Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino - 19.2 km
As we continued and completed our walk across the vast and isolated meseta these last two days, I found a new appreciation for the hospitality bestowed upon us pilgrims.
Entering the unique town of Castrojeriz, with its churches and hilltop castle, Randy and I stopped at an albergue to inquire where we could get a late lunch. The woman running the albergue offered to cook for us, and showed us to the dining room.
Within 20 minutes we had a platter of salad and another of chicken, a bowl of chips and another of bread, a pitcher of sangria, and an assortment of yogurts set before us (without ever being asked what we wanted to eat).
After this feast, and jovial conversations with two men from Holland who were staying at this albergue, we too were ready to call it a day. Appreciating immensely this woman who took us in.
The next day, again traveling the meseta with towns few and far between, we happened upon a man who had set up a fruit stand, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Randy professed his love for the man and his offering of bananas and oranges, asking for only a "donativo" (donation) in return if we had one to offer.
What a great ministry! I thought. To offer nourishment to weary travelers on The Way.
At the next town we came to we stopped at a cafe for a sandwich and soda. Two men on bicycles stopped also. And even though they spoke no English, they chatted with us, quickly and at length.
I've heard that there can be animosity between walking pilgrims and bicycling pilgrims. But I am completely in awe of the bicycling pilgrims. The hills they have to climb and the weather they have to face may be the same as ours, but certainly take a different kind of strength.
Of the bicycling pilgrims I have conversed with, however, they all say it is easier than walking. That we who walk are taking the more difficult path. Simply because it takes half, or less, the time to get across the country on bike.
The two Spaniards I met today are averaging 100 kilometers a day! One called the other "loco" because of it, particularly in today's high winds ("muy malo" - very bad), but they pressed on together.
I think it is the hospitality that everyone shows me that makes me want to return the favor. To embrace others on The Way, no matter what path they choose. On foot or on bike. Going 10 kilometers a day or 30 or 100. Sleeping in hostels or hotels. Cooking their own food or allowing others to cook for them.
We are here to care for one another, after all. To love. And what better way than to show hospitality.
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