Fortunately for me I woke up this morning feeling normal again. Unfortunately for Randy, he did not. Also unfortunately is that we stayed at an albergue last night. And albergues require us to leave by 8 a.m. Though we frequently push our limits to as late as 9.
We stopped at the town bar so I could get a ham sandwich for breakfast. I knew Randy was really sick when he asked for hot tea instead of his usual double espresso ("cafe doble").
With no other options in the tiny town of Calzadilla, we were forced to start walking, along the highway, on a cool and foggy morning.
After 9.7 kilometers in a few slow hours, we reached a beautiful albergue in Terradillos de los Templarios. Clean and new and warm, with a fabulous cafeteria. And Randy was already feeling better. Good enough to stomach some pasta and give him the energy to go further.
Several days ago, Dirk from Germany said that the good thing is, whatever ails you today, something else will ail you tomorrow.
This might sound negative, even discouraging. But we've actually found peace and comfort in this truth. Because a new hurt tomorrow means that whatever hurts today won't hurt for long.
Yesterday my stomach hurt. Today it did not. Today it was my hip flexors. Tomorrow it might be a knee or shoulder or foot. But at least my stomach is better and so will be my hip.
Today Randy's stomach hurt. Tomorrow it will not. Tomorrow it might be his toe or heel. But it won't be today's hurt.
So, there is no need to dwell on today's hurt. Because by tomorrow it will be forgotten.
While resting and enjoying our lunch Randy asked me how it felt to be "halfway", as Terradillos is the halfway point between St. Jean Pied de Port, France, where I started, and Santiago, where I plan to end.
I expected to feel accomplished. Excited. Proud. Relieved. Exhausted. Something.
But the truth is, I didn't feel anything at all.
Perhaps because there was no monument or plaque or sign to commemorate this locale (though "Uncle John" tells us there is one coming up in Sahagun to mark halfway between Roncesvalles, 24 km into our trip, and Santiago). Perhaps because I was more focused on Randy and me feeling better than on how many kilometers we had managed in the last sick two days. Perhaps because it is overwhelming to think how many miles I still have to go. Perhaps because the number of kilometers has ceased to matter, paling in comparison to the richness of our experience.
Regardless, I didn't feel any emotional attachment to this stop. So, as the sun came out and warmed up the afternoon, we easily decided to continue on 6 more kilometers, with sunglasses on, to the comfortably cozy town of San Nicolas, where we are sleeping above a bar/cafe with two other pilgrims on The Way.
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