Day 39

Day 39: San Justo de la Vega to El Ganso - 17.9 km

I think I'm finally getting the hang of this Camino thing.

My feet are killing me. I've left half of my clothing and most of my toiletries at various albergues along the way. I have a sunburn, but only on the left side of my body. And tonight we made dinner together in the albergue kitchen. (Okay so I didn't do any of the cooking, but I did do all the dishes!)

I have also met several people who have just started walking, which I was told would happen as we approached Holy Week. Some started in Leon 3 days ago. And one couple started today in Astorga.

Christie is from Texas, living in North Carolina, and Tom is from California. She said she found out about the Camino when Shirley McClaine's book literally fell off a secondhand bookstore shelf into her lap. She started talking about it and everyone thought she was crazy. Until she met Tom, who says "I'm just crazy enough" to do it too.

She works as a massage therapist at the Ritz Carlton. A $200 tip inspired her to start saving her cash tips in a shoe box.

The plan was to start in Leon 3 days ago. But Tom's wallet was stolen in the airport in California, leaving him without credit cards and cash (but luckily with his passport!). And then his luggage didn't arrive with him in Leon.

After it finally arrived on the third day they decided to take the bus to Astorga to "catch up" to where they had expected to be by now.

They were taking it slow and steady and I enjoyed giving them tips and helping explain some of the "customs" of both the Camino and Spain.

I was also delighted to run into my friend Romy from New Zealand at my stop for the night. Where I also made many new friends.

Since I started walking alone I have discovered that English is no longer the common language. Tonight I was the only one who didn't speak French. Last night I was the only one not fluent in Spanish (though I did catch much of the conversation). And the previous night I was the only one who couldn't understand German.

It truly is an international journey!

Camile from France says she walked from St. Jean to Burgos two years ago but had to go home because of tendinitis in her feet, which kept getting worse with each passing kilometer. I hope this isn't what is causing my new found pain!

While limping through a town earlier today a man told me to drink more water and soak my feet in salt before going to bed. So when I arrived in El Ganso the man running the albergue made me a cold saltwater bath. I don't know if it helped or not, but it was very sweet of him and inspired lots of conversation from my albergue friends about our various ailments and those of others we have encountered on the Way.

Blisters are nothing, we've decided. Compared to all the other things that can and have caused us pain!

And yet we continue to find joy in all things. Like this morning, for example, when I arrived in Astorga before anything was open (9 a.m.). Except the Cathedral of Santa Marta.

Three people were standing next to a side door and told me to go on in. So I did. There were one or two others seated. So I sat down to read my Bible. After an hour had passed I looked up and saw that 50 or so people had joined us, as well as the priest. And that's how I ended up attending mass at the Cathedral.

In a magazine that is published every year detailing the events of Holy Week in this region, I learned that every night from now until Easter there will be celebrations. Parades. Services. In each town that I will walk through. They claim it is the largest Holy Week celebration in all the world. As if I needed more reason to love my journey across Spain!

It will be a glorious end to the Camino!