At the recommendation of our friend Jeff from North Dakota, Randy and I stopped at Bar Elvis before leaving Reliegos this morning.
Even though we started our walk with Jeff a month ago, our Caminos have become very different experiences. He will be arriving in Santiago tomorrow. And I'm still weeks away!
Jeff stopped at Bar Elvis in Reliegos 11 days ago, leaving his North Dakota flag on the wall. Amongst lots of other flags, notes, clothing, etc.
When we arrived at 9:30 this morning the bar was closed. But Sinin, the proprietor, stumbled his way to the entrance, unlocking the door for us, and promising us coffee within "cinco minutos" (5 minutes). The bar was littered with dirty glasses and the tables needed wiped down. But we quickly understood why Jeff wanted us to stop here. And how much fun must take place here each night, causing Sinin to stumble regularly to the door for "early" pilgrims in search of coffee.
He told us to wait 10 minutes more for the bread truck to arrive and then he would make us a ham and cheese sandwich. He turned "Friends" on the television. And the soundtrack to "Forrest Gump" on the stereo.
Meanwhile we befriended an Italian who was walking home to France with his dog. Having already walked to Santiago, and now is headed back. He says you essentially have to live as a "bum" when you walk with your dog. Because even though dogs are welcome in bars, they aren't so welcomed in albergues. He was packing up his sleeping bag and tent when we met him.
He reminded us that the traditional pilgrimage requires you to walk to a site of religious significance, as well as walk home. Returning "back" is as much a part of the pilgrimage as is walking "to".
I meditated on this truth as we walked to Arcahueja. And I found it interesting how the outer landscape reflected my inner thoughts.
For several days now we have been walking along gravel paths beside quiet country roads. With fields on both sides.
Yesterday we watched a shepherd unhurriedly allow his sheep to cross the road from pasture to pasture. And the day before we came across a labyrinth at a "rest stop". A kind of maze with only one way to the center. I followed its path to heart center, appreciating this reminder that all roads lead to Santiago. God. Peace. Whatever it is that is true.
But today the Camino brought us into the outskirts of the 130,000 population city of Leon. And our quiet path suddenly had pasture on one side and a busy highway, with semi-trucks and gas stations, on the other.
To me this symbolized what it will be like to return home. With all that we learned about ourselves and who we want to be on one side, and the busy-ness of life and work and responsibilities on the other.
Will we be able to balance the two? Blend the peace with the noise? Maintain an attitude of gratitude even when we have to do more than walk and pray and eat each day?
I pray it will be so. That the peace we carry will last long after Santiago.
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