Day 26

Day 26 – Rabe de las Calzadas to Hontanas – 18.5 km

Today we tackled the dreaded Meseta.

Typically pilgrims deplore walking across the mesa because of the heat and barrenness of the land. Today, however, was a comfortable 50 degrees, with alternating breezes and showers, and lush green fields. 

Yet still I felt the isolation. Even with the dozen pilgrims I encountered on The Way.

Ten long kilometers passed between each small town. Long enough to feel alone in the world. Insignificant. As if I could get lost, or even disappear, without anyone taking notice.

I long to be noticed. To make a difference, during this one life I have to live.

While Randy and I were taking a rest at the foot of a cross, Rosita from Brazil stopped and asked if she could tell us a story. This is her second walk across Spain. Last year she encountered a couple who met each other on the Camino and finished their walk by getting married in Muxia, a few days beyond Santiago, surrounded by friends they had acquired on The Way.

We've heard similar stories of love. And it makes sense. You share so much, so deeply, when you walk with one another, day in and day out.

She went on to ask if we were planning on arriving in Santiago during Holy Week. I said I was. She warned against it. “The Camino makes us sensitive,” she said. We share tears and blisters and take care of one another. But once you get to Sarria, she said, more people join the Camino. Especially during Holy Week. And instead of being a place of open-heartedness, it becomes a competition. A race to get a bed in the next albergue.     

You only have to walk the last 100 kilometers of the Camino to receive a Compostela (certificate of completion). So, many begin their walk in Sarria for those last 100. Either because of time constraints or because the Camino, for them, is about reaching Santiago.

Unlike the woman from Holland, who I met yesterday, who said her longing was not to walk to Santiago, but to walk the Camino. So she will walk as long as she has time, from Burgos to wherever she ends up.

It made me think that it doesn’t take the barrenness of the Meseta to make us feel alone. We can feel just as isolated in a crowd of people. Competing to have needs met. Prayers answered. To live lives of significance.

Perhaps I will have another Meseta-like experience during my final days to Santiago. Or maybe by then I will feel close enough to Christ, myself, and the community that holds me, to know that I will never be alone.

I’m now halfway through the days I have in Spain. Twenty-six of my fifty-two already experienced. I imagine I will continue to wrestle with this question of significance. What the journey means for me. And you. Praying all the while that I will be changed, to more accurately represent the face of Christ, in this one life I have to live. Because that, to me, would be worth noticing.

Day 25

Day 25: Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas – 13.3 km

As we entered the “moderately” sized town of Rabe (population 190), a man stepped out of an albergue and flagged us down with a cheerful “buenas tardes” and “venga”. Good afternoon. Come.

Within the hour we were seated around a dining table with five other pilgrims who had also elected to stay here because of the hospitality. Some were told of the albergue by passing motorists. One had a guidebook in which this was the only albergue on the whole Camino that received a positive recommendation. Another was simply glad to have companionship, after spending the previous night alone in a room with 50 bunks.

We were from Holland, Denmark, England, Germany, and the U.S.

“Why are you doing the Camino?” became the order of business, during our primero (first) course of noodle soup and pasta salad. We could hear our hostess working on our segundo course (spanish omelet adorned with pimientos) across the hall, next to the bathroom, laundry, and our bunk rooms.

One of the men from Denmark had too much stress in his life from work. He is an intermediary in the field of agriculture, as well as a journalist. And was thoroughly enjoying a month without e-mail. Though stressing a bit about being home in time for Easter with his family.

Keld, the other man from Denmark, is on his third Camino. This time walking the latter half, from Leon to Santiago, with his youngest daughter. We were delighted to find out this old man was a former hippie!

Dirk, from Germany, quit his job in February and decided to walk the Camino before applying for another job. He works in the IT field. His biggest challenge has been to enjoy the journey. Because it is his nature to race to the finish, check Santiago off his “list”, and then feel free to vacation. “But this IS the vacation,” he was working on reminding himself.

Even though my journey has been slow, I completely relate to this need to reach the end goal and then let myself relax.

The woman from Holland is walking simply because she has today. Two years ago she had a brain tumor. And while she is seemingly healthy now, she is more aware than ever that we may not have tomorrow.

Simon, from England, was recently forced to retire from the military where he served as a lieutenant colonel. In essence, he walks because he is bored. And he feels a bit “lame” for it. Meeting along the way people who have “real” reasons for walking. One man he met had literally lost everything. His job. His girlfriend. His home.

I pray that Simon will find his purpose along The Way. As I can surely liken my own journey to his.

Why is it that I walk? To be changed. To encounter Christ in the people I meet. To be open-hearted to whatever experience I am meant to have. To share the journey with you.

Not because I have lost it all. But because I hope to gain more of what the world has to offer. So that I in turn have more to give.

Perhaps not the most exciting of reasons. The most dramatic of stories. But I still came for the same reason that everyone else did. To walk.  

During our second course we dug deeper. Sharing about the relationships we had developed on the Camino. “Saying goodbye is the hardest thing,” one said. “Especially to those first persons you walked with,” said another. 

By the time we finished dessert (yogurt), we were more than friends. We were family. And set off to the bar together for a round of pacheron (the regional liquor) and even deeper conversations that led late into the night.

The time changed while we slept, springing forward, but we still all rose together in the morning to wish each other a good walk. Buen camino!

Day 24

Day 24: Castanares to Burgos - 7.5 kilometers (all on city streets)

Today's 7.5 kilometers felt like a rest day. We had a late breakfast of toast and coffee. And took our time walking through the big city of Burgos (population 175,000).

Not all pilgrims are excited about entering city life after the relative calm of the journey thus far. We are used to small towns with only a church, a bar, and an albergue. And homes for the 20-50 residents. In between towns walking through the glorious countryside of farms and fields and mountains.

But I love the extra culture that the cities have to offer. More restaurants. Local flavor. Churches and parks and teenagers hanging out in one of the many town squares. Businessmen and grandmothers stopping us on the street to ask where we have come from and to call on God to go with us on The Way. Blending in with other tourists once we've left our packs and muddy boots in the albergues and hotels.

On our agenda was to enjoy some of the amenities of the big city: buying more toothpaste, hitting the ATM, laundry, purchasing another guidebook since Randy and I will be parting ways next week (we burned his in the Pyrenees), eating tapas, visiting the 13th century Cathedral of Santa Maria, and whatever else the city decided to offer us.

The Cathedral was definitely the highlight of the day. Absolutely breathtaking in its grandeur. The second largest cathedral in all of Spain.

The town square surrounding it was busy with shops and cafes, musicians and pilgrims, families and lovers. We encountered a group of pilgrims who dubbed themselves "the international team", coming from all over the world to walk to Santiago. After sharing where we were from, the man from Holland said his wife was from Nebraska. Earlier in the day we met a couple from southern California who are doing the Camino by train.

We toured the cathedral, rode the carousel, ate hot dogs with the teenagers, tapas with their parents, and chocolate with the kids. Staying out late to enjoy the city by night.

The weatherman is predicting rain for the rest of the week, so I'm grateful we got to enjoy our beautiful, restful day in the city!

Days 22 & 23

Day 22: Villafranca de Montes de Oca to San Juan de Ortega – 12.4 km (up and down a mountain in the snow)

Day 23: San Juan de Ortega to Castanares – 18.7 km

I love walking in the snow! It is a wonderful time for reflection and contemplation.

Yesterday I was remembering the first time Randy duct taped my pants to my shoes to keep the snow out. Three weeks ago in the Pyrenees. At the time I thought I must be crazy to take this adventure, with strangers, into so many unknowns. But now I am joyous. Knowing I would have been crazy not to come. No longer encountering strangers. Only friends to share the world with. And the Camino.

The way up the mountain to San Juan was slippery and slow. Several inches of snow had fallen overnight and continued to fall throughout the day. But I warmed up quickly. Having to shed an Under Armour layer within the first kilometer.

Usually down the mountain is slow and arduous, difficult on the knees. But with 6 inches of fresh powder to cushion the blow, we raced to the bottom.

The path was beautiful, through pine forests heavy with accumulating snow. But there was nothing between Villafranca and San Juan. Not a town or a café. Not a bread truck or a water fountain. Unusual for our daily journeys. But motivation to keep moving without our typical stops along the way. 

By the time we reached San Juan de Ortega I was ready for dry clothes. The church bells chimed as if inviting us into this tiny town with a population of a mere 30 people. We had heard rumors that the albergue did not have hot water, but decided to take our chances. We could survive a night without a shower, after all.

So we paid 5 euros a piece and stuffed our boots with newspapers to absorb any dampness that was working its way through our waterproofing.  

There ended up being 7 of us, all on lower bunks, in one room. Romy from New Zealand who we met in our early days and continue to bump into regularly. As well as four 20-somethings, who also met on their first day in St. Jean, France, and have been walking together ever since. They were from Australia, Germany, and Scotland.

The albergue did not only not have hot water, but didn’t have heat at all. (Actually there was a little heat coming out of the radiators when we first arrived, teasing us into thinking we would be able to dry our socks overnight, but it was turned off and cold before we went to bed.) And the “feels like” temperature that night was in the lower teens. Walking outside through the courtyard from the unheated bunk room to the unheated bathroom was a challenge for us all. Romy even saying she had never stayed anywhere so cold in all her 70+ years.

To top it off, the man running the albergue was not a cheery host. We’ve encountered several rough around the edges men in Spain, but always end up breaking through the façade. After an hour with us they are feeding us and blowing us kisses like long lost family. But not this guy. He wouldn’t even give us an extra log for the fire.

We practically ran to the next town in the morning, 3.6 kilometers away, in hopes of a cup of hot coffee.

Entering the town of Ages, we immediately came to an albergue/café. It was locked but we rang the doorbell. And were invited in by AnnaMaria. She fried us eggs and bacon, gave us a plate full of rock hard toast (which the roof of my mouth is finally adjusting to), and filled our cups with hot coffee.

She didn’t speak any English, but by our countenance could tell that we had stayed in San Juan. She hugged me and told me to stay as long as I wanted, to keep warm and digest breakfast before having to go back out in the cold.

She told me I could go upstairs and look at her albergue if I promised not to cry. I took my chances and discovered a second floor of comfortable beds with sheets and blankets, bathrooms with hot showers, and a third floor bungalow style attic of mattresses on a beautiful wood floor. The fact that we were freezing less than 4 kilometers away last night did make me want to cry, but also made me grateful to know that comfort and distress are not so far apart.

I promised her that “next time” I walk the Camino I will stay with her. And tell my friends to do so as well. We got hugs and kisses and our cheeks patted before we left, reorienting us to be able to enjoy our day’s walk.

Even though the food was delicious and the coffee hot, it was her cheery disposition that truly made my day. Never underestimate the power of a smile, a hug, or any other act of kindness!

    

Day 21

Day 21 - Detour to Pozo de San Indalecio and back to Villafranca de Montes de Oca - 4.6 km

I'm a very indecisive person. If I can pass off decisions onto others, or the winds and the waves, I will gladly do so.

This morning I was trying to decide what to do today. Head west to San Juan de Ortega and beyond. Or detour to the church, bridge, fountain, river, gorge, and reservoir. With the option of making the trek to San Juan in the afternoon.

Randy refused to make the decision for me, saying he was game to hang out with me whatever I decided. So I said, "If the albergue will let us leave our backpacks here for the morning, we will detour. If they won't, we will follow the Camino."

I asked the hospitelaro if we could "dejar las mochilas" and she said we could pick them back up at one. Which is how we ended up hiking the most beautiful off beaten path, climbing a dam to see the beautiful reservoir, and bouldering our way up the rock face to a cave. That we would probably still be in had we had our flashlights.

Weeks ago we exchanged stories about the fun times we have had spelunking with our brothers. Meandering for hours. Getting lost. Worrying our parents. Elbow crawls, underwater dives, narrow passageways. Memories to last a lifetime.

So when Randy suggested we take our fresh fruit snack up the mountain to the cave we could see off in the distance I naturally said yes.

And for perhaps the first time in three weeks I didn't feel like a pilgrim. I didn't have a backpack. An agenda. Or kilometers to tick off. I was simply an adventurous soul exploring the great outdoors with a friend. Trying not to fall off a mountain.

I needed this "rest day." A change in the daily pace. Time. Counting. And came back to town feeling refreshed.

A very wet snow was beginning to fall. My stomach began to think about tortillas and bocadillas and donuts. (They have the best donuts in Spain!!) And rumor has it there isn't a hot shower for at least 16 kilometers.

So I decided to stay in town rather than walk the 12 kilometers to San Juan. To stay in the "exclusive" (only) hotel in town, take a hot shower, put in several hours of work, and look forward to walking in the snow, refreshed, tomorrow.

Day 20

Day 20: Belorado to Villafranca de Montes de Oca - 11.9 km (in the cold, wind, and rain)

Total for the first 20 days: 251.2 km

Today was a day of ups and downs for me.

It started way up. While we were having breakfast in Belorado, a farmer's market was being set up around the town square. We filled our packs with fresh apples, oranges, and the most delicious pears!

But shortly after we started walking my shoulders began to ache. I blame this on everything from my backpack, to sleeping in a different bunk bed every night, to the thoughts weighing heavy on my mind.

Randy and I get teased everywhere we go that we aren't going to make it to Santiago "until Septiembre" at our pace. That even the "viejo" (old) can do 30 kilometers a day.

I'm not actually worried that I won't make it in my time frame. And I'm quite happy with our slow and steady pace that allows us to appreciate the world around us and each others company.

But I am reminded that I have only one month left in Spain. With tickets to fly home on April 24.

Will it be enough time to do and see and experience all that I want? Will I be different when I go back? Will I be ready? Will the transition be hard?

Randy knows me as well as anyone by this point and could tell I needed a break today. We stopped outside a church in Tosantos and shared the fresh fruit from the morning market. While sitting there a bread truck came along, honked twice, and stopped alongside us. We looked at each other in amusement, and jumped to our feet to see what was going on. Some of the neighbors joined us. The van door slid open and the driver sold us a fresh loaf of bread, for less than one euro. We were just as excited as if he had been an ice cream truck! (Perhaps more since it was only 35 degrees!)

This manna from heaven was exactly what I needed to bolster my spirits.

We walked and enjoyed our "communion" of bread and conversation. My pack felt several kilos lighter. And after a coffee stop in Villambistia, I was even able to appreciate the cold, windy, rainy walk the rest of the way to Villafranca. Especially since we could see our friend Aloys from Holland and his backpack's yellow rain cover ahead of us on the Way!

I'm happy now to be warm and dry. To have a bunk bed on which to sleep. And am committed to making the most of my next 30 days!

Day 19

Day 19: Grañón to Belorado - 15.9 km (in alternating sun, clouds, rain, and hail)

At the recommendation of my friend Rachel, Randy and I headed to Grañón yesterday. The Camino is all about sharing experiences, and she had a particularly memorable one in this little town.

We entered the church where she stayed, went up the back steps, dripping wet in our ponchos. A small group of people were gathered. We asked if they had "dos camas" (two beds). They said "no beds", but offered to feed us if we wanted to come in out of the rain. Then pointed us in the direction of another albergue: La Casa de Sonrisas.

Immediately upon entering this albergue I felt Rachel's spirit, and the spirit of the Camino. The door was wide open. The walls a rainbow of colors, paintings, signatures, and inspiration. The name of the albergue translates to "House of Smiles". And we were met with many. Including two dogs, three other pilgrims, Ernesto who runs the private hostel and several of his house guests.

At 8 p.m. we were invited to gather around the table for dinner. A huge skillet of potatoes, peppers, chorizo, and all sorts of other delights. Plus bread and wine and fruit and yogurt.

We shared stories. One had come by tractor from Germany, with a trailer full of tools to help fix up the albergue. Another had walked the Camino four times. One walked last year, and is still angry about the boy she fell for who insisted they part ways after a week lest he fall in love with her. Another is a volunteer hospitalero, meaning he volunteers at an albergue for two weeks, then moves on to another albergue to volunteer there.

After our communal meal we went to the bar together. Meeting up with more of their friends and other locals. The conversations were lively, even if we didn't understand everything that was going on.

It happened to be an annual celebration in Grañón, though no one ever clarified what exactly they were celebrating. Only that we had perfect timing as it only happens once a year. So at midnight we went to the special events for the evening. There was a comedian, at least 75 people in attendance, tons of laughter, and lots of sweet snacks. This was followed by Bingo, but we all returned to the albergue, having had enough sugar and laughter for one night.

Spending time with locals has been a delightful part of the journey. They are so supportive of pilgrims, many having walked the Camino themselves. Introducing us to local sights, drinks, jokes, and cafes. And even walking with us some of the way.

For example, when we arrived in Belorado this afternoon an elderly woman asked if she could help us. I told her we were looking for an albergue. There are several in this town, and I wanted to know which was the best. She refused to tell me, but told me she would walk with us instead. She took us into the town square, pointing out the church, local restaurants, and a nearby albergue. Which I'm pretty sure was her way of saying it was the best.

We took her recommendation and are currently sitting around the table with Italians, Germans, Koreans, and Spaniards, playing cards, reading, journaling, sharing food, and laughter.

Always listen to the locals!

Day 18

Day 18: Santo Domingo to Grañón - 6.5 km (in the rain)

The most common questions we ask each other on The Way are: 

• Where are you from?
• Why are you walking el Camino?
• How did you get time off in order to walk?

Answers to this last question have been very interesting. Committing to el Camino means anywhere from 4 to 10 weeks away from home, work, and family. Some are between jobs. Or just graduated. Some worked 365 days last year in order to get 6 weeks off this year. Others are retired. Or made special arrangements to cover their jobs and other responsibilities. 

But more often than not pilgrims recognize that they simply had to make the Camino a priority. 

Because we can come up with excuses all day long not to live our dreams. (No matter how legitimate they are.) Or we can choose to live them. 

And everyone here has made the choice to live.  

For me that means carrying my laptop across Spain, taking short walking days so I can complete my work assignments in hotels and cafes. 

And it has been worth every step. Every extra kilo in my pack. 

Whatever it takes in order to live. 

That is the choice I want to make. 

Working in the albergue in Granon.

Day 17

Day 17: Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada - 15.4 km

One of the things I love about being a pilgrim is how well we get treated at restaurants and cafes. Dirty, smelly, on tight budgets, we are welcomed with open arms at each and every stop.

Many of the restaurants have what they call a "menu del dia" (menu of the day) or "menu peregrino" (pilgrim's menu).

You can always tell when someone has ordered the menu of the day because the bartender will place a tablecloth on the table. This added touch is just one of the ways they make us feel special.

The menu of the day comes with a first course: soup, salad, beans, or spaghetti.

And a second course: fish, beef, pork, or chicken. And french fries.

As well as dessert: flan, ice cream, donuts, cheesecake, apple pie, yogurt, fresh fruit, or cottage cheese (options vary by restaurant).

And every meal comes with bread, water, and a bottle of wine. Yes, bottle.

All for 8 to 12 euros.

And since I love to eat, I have at least one pilgrim's menu a day!

Other foods we eat on the regular are bocadillos (sandwiches--usually ham and cheese on a baguette), tortillas (spanish omelet--eggs, potatoes, onions, and sometimes jazzed up with cheese, mayonnaise, ham, or peppers), and tapas (appetizers).

You don't actually have to order tapas. They come complimentary when you have beer, wine, or pacheran (the liquor of the region).

Today Randy and I stopped at a golf course/country club in Ciruena and ordered our traditional "lemon beer" (half lemon soda, half beer) and befriended the chef, who just kept the plates coming. Randy owns a catering company in California so they hit it off immediately. And the chef, showing off just a touch, wanted us to try a little bit of everything: olives, anchovies, lamb chops, roasted mushrooms, fries, prosciutto and spicy chili sauce on warm bread...

Did I mention I love to eat? And I love Spain!!

 

Day 16

Day 16: Navarrete to Azofra - 21.3 km

Randy and I start each day with a check in about how we are feeling. Typically this is met with a litany of ailments, from blisters to knees to ankles to shoulders. But this morning was different.

Randy: "How is your body today?"
Me, mentally checking, "Good actually. Nothing hurts! You?"
Randy: "Good too."

It was the first time since the Pyrenees that we were able to say we felt physically prepared for the day. Which is how we ended up knocking out 15 kilometers before lunch. And that included a late/second breakfast with friends from Colorado and Germany.

They say the first two weeks challenge you physically. This has definitely been true. We even met our friend Vincent from Germany at the pharmacy looking for compeed for blisters. "Every day I go to the pharmacy," he said. Every day.

But now that we have hit our 2 week mark we know how to treat blisters, adjust our packs, when to rest, and when to push through.

So today we focused on the kilometres, the scenery, the companionship, and the graffiti. Which is on every bridge and underpass, encouraging us along the way, reminding us we aren't alone and that it is in the challenge that we become strong.

Day 15

Day 15: Logrono to Navarrete - 13 km

Me: "How long do you have to walk the Camino?"
Vincent from Germany: "I have time enough."

The Way has been slow and steady, but I feel like there is time enough to walk AND enjoy time resting, appreciating, and falling more and more in love with the land and the people and the culture.

Aloys from Holland: "One of the lessons from the Camino is to live in the present, even when you have an end goal."

It is amazing how, in a mere two weeks, the end goal of reaching Santiago is no longer at the forefront of my mind. Instead is getting up each day to spend time deepening relationships, walking together, opening our hearts and minds to all that is available to us.

I do still plan on walking all the way to Santiago. To reach the end goal. But each day, each walk, each conversation is now as much the purpose of the journey as is the end result.

Day 14

Day 14: Viana to Logrono - 10 km

This morning I was met with the most wonderful surprise!

In a restored palace in Viana, while looking for a cup of coffee and a pastry, I immediately caught sight of my long lost friend Alois from Holland! We parted ways on Day 9 and hadn't managed to reconnect. But there he was, sitting at the bar drinking espresso!

I screamed with delight and ran to him for a hug. Though only five days walking apart, five days on the Camino can make a lifetime of memories, and can also make you feel like you've missed out on sharing a lifetime of memories with your favorite friends.

Once again, Alois, Randy, and I walked together.

We were missing our fourth partner, Jeff from North Dakota, but he and Alois became friends on Facebook while we were relaxing at a cafe in Pamplona. Since there is WIFI nearly everywhere in Spain, they have been keeping track of each other's journeys. Jeff is about two days ahead of us on The Way.

Alois was meeting another pilgrim from Holland in Logrono, so we all walked together that far. They had never met before, but found out through a Facebook group that they would both be walking at the same time. Why not meet up with someone from your own small country on The Way?

The three of us were feeling good, in body and mind, so the 10 kilometers took only 2.5 hours to complete. (It is amazing how long a walk can take when your mind is worried or busy, or your feet are tired and sore. But how quick is the road when everything is aligned... and you don't have mountains to climb!)

Randy and I decided to stay in Logrono as well. Even though it was early, we decided to call it a day when we found an albergue with a washer and dryer. For two days we've been washing our clothes in the shower because laundry service hasn't been available in the small towns we've been staying in. And after walking in 75 degree weather we definitely needed to wash the few clothes we have with us!

I will be so happy to get up tomorrow morning and put on fresh clothes for the next leg of our journey!!

Washing clothes in the shower and drying them on the heaters.

Randy and Alois doing laundry at the albergue.

Days 12 & 13

Day 12: Estella to Los Arcos - 21.1 km
Day 13: Los Arcos to Viana - 18.6 km

My rest day in Estella was exactly what my mind and body needed. Like a "reset" button to enable me to enjoy the last two days of long walks.

These walks have been all about joy, beauty, and deepening relationships. Celebrating the gifts of God's creation as we walk through fields, vineyards, olive groves, and the occasional--very occasional--small town.

It is interesting to note that the first week and a half we were all about walking through towns, looking for the next cafe so we could have a hot drink in the morning and a cold one in the afternoon. Collecting cellos (stamps) in our pilgrims passports.

The "credencial del peregrino" (pilgrims passport) is our "proof" that we walked the Camino. Each day we get at least one stamp to show what towns we have passed through. The stamps are available at cafes, churches, albergues, and hotels. When we arrive in Santiago we will show our full passports and receive our certificate of completion of the Camino.

But these last two days I have been drawn to the countryside. The longer walks and slower pace. Enjoying picnic lunches and long afternoon siestas in the shade. Chatting with other pilgrims as they pass by and further getting to know the ones I continue to walk with.

Randy was telling me today how different the Camino lifestyle is from his at home--fast paced, filled with family and work responsibilities. My "real life" in Ohio is actually slow and steady, rhythmically filled with walks and food, writing and thinking about writing, just like my Camino life. The major difference for me here is the regular--frequent and deep--interaction with others.

I had dinner with a 27-year-old doctor from Belarus a couple nights ago who said he had found the Camino to be as much--if not more--about the people you meet as it is about the walking. He is an orthopedic pediatric surgeon who specializes in non-invasive treatment of club foot. He realized he had "stopped dreaming", and came to the Camino to begin again.

The time for introspection, for processing with self and others and God, here on the Camino is the perfect atmosphere to explore your dreams and the ones God has for you.

Day 11

Day 11: Rest day in Estella

Estella is an amazing little town with so much love for peregrinos (pilgrims). It was the perfect place to take a rest day.

Randy and I headed out this afternoon to explore the city but ended up following the flechas y conchas (arrows and shells) just like any other day.

One of my favorite things about walking the Camino so far has been not having to consult a map or even really pay attention to where I am going. There are arrows and shells on every street corner, curbs, buildings, benches, everywhere you can think of, to guide us on our way.

Life is so easy when your sole responsibility is to be obedient to the signs spread out before you. Trusting them to guide you in the right direction.

Which is how we ended up following the arrows all the way to the wine fountain in Irache, about 2 km away.

The fountain that has a spout for water and one for wine is a well known stop on the Camino. A little treat after a hard week of walking, to encourage pilgrims to continue, joyfully, on The Way.

Exactly what I needed to inspire me to get up tomorrow morning and walk.

Day 10

Day 10: Puente la Reina to Estella - 21.9 km

My longest walk yet! And my first blister.

To be honest I didn't want to walk as far as I did. But the albergues in the four small towns I walked through hadn't yet opened for the season. A larger number of pilgrims will begin walking in April, so the hostels will all be open and pilgrims will have more options to take shorter or longer walks.

The long walk was actually more of a mental challenge than a physical one. Even though my feet were sore and tired, it was my mind that struggled to stay present and positive.

I got the boost I needed when, after 18 km, Randy and I finally found a bar open and could treat ourselves to a "cerveza con limon" - half beer, half lemon soda. The boost wasn't just the cold drink, however. It was also that our bartender, a beautiful young woman from Brazil, wanted her photo taken with the two Americans crazy enough to walk across Spain.

I was reminded that this walk is about more than just me. It has the potential to touch people all over the world. So it is important to work hard, work happy, and give more than I receive.

I'm taking a rest day in Estella, a town of 15,000 with much to do and see, including not wearing my hiking boots, writing some postcards, and reminding myself how lucky I am to be on this journey.

Day 9

Day 9: Uterga to Puente la Reina via Eunate - 9.5 km

Today I experienced an unexpected sadness when my group of friends started to part ways. There have been a few people I have met, or walked a short time with, who I have wished a "buen camino" - good journey - and simply been grateful for our chance meeting. But four of us - Jeff from North Dakota, Alois from Holland, Randy from California, and I from Ohio - have been together since day 5.

Granted that is only four days. But four days of walking together on the Camino is enough to develop friendships for a lifetime.

Leaving Uterga late morning, after a traditional Spanish omelet (eggs, potatoes, and onions) and espresso, the four of us, plus Sylvie from Paris and Fred from Ireland, set off together. Though twice my age, Fred quickly pulled ahead of the pack, not to be seen again this day.

After 2.5 kilometers we came to a crossroads where we had to decide to take the traditional route or detour to Eunate, where we could visit a 12th century Romanesque church, built in an octagonal form. It was 2.8 kilometers out of the way, but what are we here to do but walk?

Everyone but Alois decided to take the detour. We briefly discussed our next stops on the way so that we could chance running into each other again, at an albergue or cafe. And off he went, alone on The Way.

The church at Eunate was gorgeous. Well worth the extra kilometers.

We each took a moment to sit alone in the chapel. I could say nothing more than "thank you" for this incredible journey. Thank you for new friendships. Thank you for all the support I have back home. Thank you for all I have yet to experience on The Way.

Earlier in the morning I overheard Jeff and Alois talking and saying to one another, "We are on the Camino!" It is still just as incredible to us that we are walking as it was 9 days ago.

Church of Santa Maria de Eunate

Leaving the church we walked alongside cornfields on a gravel road until reconnecting with the Camino. We ended up in Puente la Reina where we stopped for a late lunch. Arthur from Poland joined us and said he had just run into our friend from Holland. That he was here in town staying at the monastery. We were thrilled to know we hadn't lost him.

After lunch Randy and I decided to stay in Puente la Reina too. To take time to look at the map and figure out our next steps. How far we should actually be walking each day. And to empty our packs of some weight.

I have a pair of shoes I plan to leave behind. And half a book (the other half we burned in the Pyrenees to get a fire going).

But Sylvie and Jeff decided to press on. To put in another 5k while the days are sunny and warm. As early as next week we could be walking daily in rain.

Watching Jeff and his pack with its USA and North Dakota flags attached walk off into the distance without us made me surprisingly emotional. I guess I had begun to envision the four of us entering Santiago. Celebrating what we had accomplished. Together.

But we each have our own journey. Our own timeline. Our own purpose and calling.

Learning to let go is just one of the many lessons we have to learn on The Way.

Day 8

Day 8: Pamplona to Uterga - 17.4 km

Are you keeping track? We walked over 88 kilometers our first week!

Which actually puts us a little behind schedule. But I'm not worried.

They say the Camino is a 3 part journey. The first two weeks are about the physical. The second two weeks challenge you mentally. And the final two weeks are when spirituality really comes into play. 

So I think it is perfectly acceptable to ease our way into walking during these first two weeks of the physically challenging part. Adjusting to the weight of the pack on my shoulders. The up and down terrain. Sweating regardless of whether it is 35 or 65 degrees.

I actually felt really good on yesterday's walk. Which I attribute to resting most of the day in Pamplona yesterday. As well as eating more during the day.

Getting used to the altitude and the time change meant not eating or sleeping much those first few days. But now I'm back in the rhythm of things. And the food is so good!

"Picnic" lunch.

The highlight of yesterday's walk was climbing to the top of Alto de Pardon, the hill of forgiveness, which is featured in the movie "The Way". To have seen it in the movie and then to be standing next to the metal art, the wind turbines, and look down over the valley we had just climbed out of was a joyous moment. Though everyone who reached the peak said the same thing about the metal art: "I thought it would be bigger." LOL. Regardless of its size, it didn't take away from the fact that the view was breathtaking. And we picked up new friends, a 22-year-old woman from Paris and a 70-year-old man from Ireland, who we shared dinner and drinks and raucous laughter with until way past our bedtime. 

Alto de Perdon

Upon arriving at the albergue, one of the first persons I saw was Romy, a woman I had met several days before. We reunited as if we were long lost friends. Romy told me back in Zubiri that being here was a "God thing". Her daughter had told her about the Camino 10 years ago and said they should take the journey together. Romy put it in the back of her head as something she would always love to do but would probably never get around to. But last year a friend of hers came into a large inheritance and asked God what she should do with her tithe. She felt God lead her to give it to Romy, who lives on a pension in New Zealand. Romy decided to use the money to walk the Camino. She would need at least two months, because she is in her 70s and doesn't want to walk more than four hours a day. She says she doesn't know what it means that this is a "God thing" (she has no interest in visiting the churches or Cathedrals, but God speaks to us all in different ways!), but maybe she'll figure it out on the way. 

Romy also updated us on our other friends. 

Jim from Philadelphia passed through here, who we met in Pamplona. He is also walking the Camino for Lent and is giving free foot massages as part of his experience. He looks like he walks the Camino every day when he is home in the States, so he is never too tired to give. 

Sheila from South Africa took a nasty fall and ended up in the hospital getting x-rays. But she is okay. And the Frenchman she befriended on the Way stayed with her to make sure. They plan to get up in the morning again and walk.

Just like the rest of us.

Day 7

Day 7: Arre to Pamplona - 4.6 km

Today was a deliciously short walk. So short I didn't have time to think about my feet or my pack.

We started the day at a coffee shop. Four of us enjoying espresso and bocadillos. My morning sandwich today contained ham, egg, and sweet chili peppers. We took our time. Skipping the small talk for real conversation. Conversation too personal to share here. Why we walk. What we carry with us. Challenges and tragedies that made us who we are. Things only privy to those who walk together on The Way.

The walk to Pamplona was easy. Through city streets all the way. Even across the busy road people would shout to us "Buen Camino!" Have a good journey.

We happened upon a man who claimed to be a pilgrim, walking in the opposite direction. He had a pack and all the credentials, but claimed the bank cut up his credit card and he had no way of getting home to Germany. Two of the guys with me gave him some money. Talking about it later we all agreed we didn't know if he was scamming or if he was legit. But it wasn't important. When you see someone on The Way who needs help, and you can help, you offer it. No strings attached. No questions asked.

Entering Pamplona we visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Real. This Gothic structure was absolutely breathtaking. We spent an hour, if not more, soaking it all in. Touring the museum, examining the details, pausing to pray.

I then went to the Plaza del Toros, where the running of the bulls takes place in July. I was unable to go inside, but the outside reminds me of a baseball stadium. With a bust of Ernest Hemingway out front. So cool to imagine how this university town must be transformed for the one week a year devoted to celebrating San Fermin and the running of the bulls.

The rest of the afternoon was spent writing and drinking espresso at Cafe Iruna, the perfect way to experience Pamplona in my opinion. Despite it being the hours of the afternoon siesta, so many people were at outdoor cafes, enjoying one another and the beautiful day.

By 5:30 it became obvious I wasn't going to walk any more today, so I located the local albergue.

I thought it would be a challenge to sleep in a different bed every night. But so far it has been a joy. Meeting new people. Experiencing the rhythms of living in community. Being offered hospitality and a place to rest my feet and head. And so far, lots of opportunities to do laundry and take hot showers.

The first night I was in a bottom bunk in a co-ed room of 20. The second night in a tent on a mountain. The third night in a room with two double beds and a private bathroom. The fourth in my own apartment. The fifth in a girls only room of 8. The sixth in a bunk bed in a church. And the seventh in a long row of bunk beds with 30 of my newest friends, sharing showers and toilets and nighttime noises.

This, how and where we sleep, is as much a part of the Camino as is walking.

Day 6

Day 6: Zubiri to Arre - 16.6 km

Alois from Holland: "In all the books I read about the Camino, they didn't talk about how beautiful is the scenery. They talked about how beautiful are the people."

On day 6, I was blessed to have both beautiful scenery and beautiful people to walk with.

Wildflowers are beginning to bloom. The rolling hills are green and inviting. We followed the river all the way, loud and jubilant, full from snow melt and rain.

At times there were as many as 6 of us walking together. Taking turns leading. More often than not in single file. Saving conversation for when we arrived at the next town and the next cafe. Even when we found ourselves separated, because someone wanted a photo or a slower or quicker pace, we still met up at the next watering hole for beer and bocadillas (sandwiches), espresso and french toast, to put our feet up and use the bathroom and get to know each other a little better.

During one of our stops we discovered that we had each come to the Camino alone. On purpose. Jeff from North Dakota even said that he would refuse to walk the Camino with a friend unless they had both done it first alone.

As if to emphasize our reasoning, two German women who had come together sat off by themselves, refusing to join our conversation or even walk quietly with us.

I'm sure they, too, have their reasoning. And that traveling together can be both personally and relationally transformative. But it would certainly be a different experience than the journey I am currently on.

One of my favorite new friends is Vincent from Valencia, Spain. While rolling a cigarette after lunch he muttered in Spanish, "I'm in Spain, but no one speaks Spanish." I laughed. And we became fast friends. He was thrilled to have someone understand him. (It is interesting that English seems to be the default language, regardless of what country people are from.)

Over dinner I learned that he is a widower, and has two sons in their 20s. He has diabetes and his doctor prescribed him to walk. He has walked sections of the Camino before, losing over 150 pounds in two years, but this is his first time traveling all the way across Spain.

We each have our reasons.

Shelia from South Africa says if she ever writes a book about the Camino she will title it: "It's Damn Hard Work".

I have to agree.

At night when I lie down, my entire body aches. My collarbone is swollen from carrying the backpack. My knees threaten tendinitis and my feet are working towards blisters with each passing kilometer.

But when I wake up in the morning I feel blessed to have this opportunity. And look forward to the beauty of a new day. So I put on my boots. Lift my pack to my shoulders. And walk.

With new friends Alois and Jeff
at a church we visited on The Way
where we left your prayers
and got to ring the church bells!

Day 5

Day 5: Espinal to Zubiri - 16 km

I stopped at a panaderia for a baguette this morning on the way out of town. The woman said nothing would be open until the town of Zubiri because it was "Domingo" - Sunday. Which is how I ended up using the bathroom at what I'm pretty sure was a frat house, at least by the way the boys eyed me when I asked to use their "servicios". It was still a better option, however, than changing my tampon in the woods (my apologies... just keeping it real!).

We did happen upon an open supermarket and grabbed rations for lunch... fruit, cheese, ham, and beer, which is actually recommended to drink during the day.

I'm still walking with Randy from California. We had a great conversation today about continuing to walk together. Should we? For how long?

He agreed with me that we met by divine appointment. And that that didn't mean we were to walk together all the way to Santiago. I've been asking God for wisdom on this one. Because I don't want either of us to be denied the lessons and growth we are here for by relying on one another too much.

We compliment each other well. He encourages me to slow down, look up, and breathe. I encourage him to push harder and to smile while doing it.

My boyfriend sent me the song "Opposites Attract" recently because we too compliment each other. Where I am weak he is strong. Where he is weak I am strong. Not so we need each other, but so that we can be stronger together and help each other grow stronger on our own.

Perhaps that is how long I am to walk with Randy. Until I can slow down and he can not give up.

We happened upon a food truck at lunch and added green olives and pineapple juice to our picnic. A salty meal to help us retain what water we had left.

When we crossed the Puente de Rabia (bridge where legend has it you can walk your animals across 3 times and they will be cured of rabies) we had to decide whether we would stay here in Zubiri or venture on another 6 km. Our feet told us to stay.

So here we are, rooming with folks from South Africa, Holland, North Dakota, South Korea, and New Zealand. It isn't "fancy" like last night, but I'm glad we did not pass up this opportunity to make new friends!

Day 4

Day 4: Roncesvalles to Espinal - 6.5 km

As I made my final descent out of the Pyrenees mountains on Friday, I knew I didn't want to hike the 22 km to Zubiri on Saturday like I had originally planned. I needed time to see how my body had fared the 9 km in waist-deep snow. Time to thank God for keeping me safe, and for the opportunity to explore the Pyrenees as I had so hoped to do in the planning of this trip. Time to reflect on the adventure. Time for selah--to pause and calmly think on that!

So I "slept in" on Saturday morning (8:30 has never felt so good!). Took a hot shower. Put on my least sweaty clothes. Went downstairs (I slept above a cafe) and had an Americano (which I think is Spanish for "Americans who can't drink straight espresso") and a "tortilla" (traditional Spanish breakfast - ham and cheese on a baguette). Repacked my bag. Tied my still-wet-from-the-snow boots to my pack. And had my picture taken in front of a sign declaring Santiago 790 km away.

Leaving Roncesvalles, the Camino wanders through the woods (mostly beech trees) for 3 km before entering the tiny town of Burguete, where Ernest Hemingway often stayed. In one of the hotels there is a piano bearing his signature. Unfortunately, because of my late start, I arrived in Burguete just in time for "siesta", so everything was closed. Except one little restaurant where I was served asparagus with mayonnaise, medallions cut from "el toro", chips (french fries), and the traditional bread, wine, and water served with every lunch and dinner.

Wine at midday is only recommended when you aren't walking far. The 3.5 km beyond Burguete were slow and sleepy, and beautiful, taking me along a cow path, through pastures and woods, over streams, with the Pyrenees still visible in the distance.

I then arrived in the tiny town of Espinal, where I was drawn to the Church of Saint Bartholomew. It was locked tight, but right next to it was an idyllic place named "Irati." I inquired about a room. An apartment, the woman said. 25 euros. I would only pay 10 at a hostel, but felt like I deserved an upgrade for the night. I assure you it is worth it!

Not only do I have my own room, and shower, and living room, and kitchen. But I also have access to a washer and dryer! I have never been so thankful to be able to wash and dry my clothes! As I write this I am wearing a dress--the only piece of clothing I have that is still clean--while my sweat and snow soaked clothing gets washed.

Meanwhile, I have taken time to celebrate the adventure in the Pyrenees. Looking up at the mountains in the distance I keep thinking, "I did that! Me!!" It is definitely among my most challenging accomplishments to date.

My legs are a little sore, especially the hip flexors (from yanking my legs out of the snow with every step!), but they actually feel better when I'm walking. So I am confident that I'm ready for the 16 km to Zubiri I have ahead of me. Because tomorrow, once again, we walk!

Days 2 & 3

Day 2: St Jean Pied de Port to La Cruz (mountain top cross) - 16 km
Day 3: La Cruz to Roncesvalles - 9 km

My first two days of walking! I was the last pilgrim to leave my albergue (hostel) and quickly bumped into Randy who was the last to leave his. In these first days of getting used to a new culture, new lifestyle, new everything, including walking with people from all over the world, I am drawn to the familiar. Which is anyone who speaks English. So Randy, a soon to be grandpa from California, felt like a great person to walk with.

We established early that we were here for adventure, beauty, and setting our own pace. The world we live in often sets the pace for us, but here we can follow our hearts, minds, and feet. He doesn't know if this will be a spiritual pilgrimage for him, but I don't think it is accidental that God put me on his path.

5 kilometers into our walk we came to a way marker that indicated we had taken the wrong path. Two routes led to Roncesvalles. The Route de Valcarlos was the easier route, along the highway, that we were told to take and had planned to. The Route de Napolean that we were on went over the Pyrenees and wasn't recommended in the winter due to snow.

Since we were here for adventure we decided to go another 5k instead of turning around. But the hostel we arrived at in 5k was closed for the season. At this point we were committed to the adventure, and had yet to see snow, so we pressed on.

Despite the fact that we were walking "together" we rarely walked side by side. Me usually 10 if not 20 minutes ahead. Though any time there was a fork in the road I waited for him so we could decide together our next steps.

As night came upon us we came to a cross on a mountain. A memorial of sorts. And set up camp.

Randy, an eagle scout, was more than prepared. With a tent, cook stove, dehydrated dinner, we camped in style. The wind gusted up to 50 miles in the night, adding to the adventure. So we waited until 9 am when the winds subsided to begin our trek the next morning. When we immediately ran into snow.

There is no way to describe how difficult it is to walk up, across, and down a mountain that is waist deep in snow. But I will tell you it took 10 hours and all our strength to go those 9k. I never feared for our safety, but I did worry that we might spend another night on the mountain or have to hike it in the dark.

With 4k to go I asked God to bring us into Roncesvalles by 8 pm in time for mass. Which, at our pace, did not seem remotely realistic. But we made it. And I received a blessing of safety from the priest. So I guess you could say I ended both nights at the cross!

That first night I thought I might be sad if this was the wildest adventure of my journey. But by mid afternoon of the second day I realized I would be perfectly content to stay on the "right" path for the rest of the journey.

Sometimes you have to take the more difficult route first in order to appreciate the "right" path later.

Though I wouldn't give up my adventure in the Pyrenees for anything!

Day 1

Happy Ash Wednesday/ first day of Lent!

My plane landed in Madrid at 830 this morning. I then spent an hour searching for somewhere in the airport to buy a bus ticket. Another hour passed eating breakfast then I was on the bus to Soria. From there I boarded another bus to Pamplona where I arrived at 330 pm. The next bus didn't leave until 6 pm, but I only had 90 minutes to go to get to St Jean Pied de Port, France, so I grabbed a cab instead of waiting.

As soon as we left the city my driver pointed out the window and said, "el Camino." It was my first glimpse of the road I would travel. I was speechless. And humored by the fact that I would be back here in a few short days, only on foot.

We traveled through beautiful country and then the snow covered town of Roncesvalles. Yes, snow. And lots of it.

As we continued to wind our way through the Pyrenees the fog grew thick and the drizzle turned to all out rain. We saw a woman walking in the same direction we were traveling. Which was odd. Most people walk west, not east.

My driver, who did not speak English, indicated that he would stop if I wanted. I wanted. The poor woman was drenched.

She was French and didn't speak Spanish or English. And yet I understood her perfectly. Though my driver did not. Perhaps it is the "magic" of The Way. I told her she was going the wrong way but she didn't have far to go.

Driving on we passed another soaked walker. I couldn't help thinking it was stupid to walk in the snow covered mountains in a rain storm. And yet it is top on my list tomorrow.

If I did have any second thoughts about walking this first leg they were put to rest when I got car sick just as we entered St Jean. The curvy roads were too much for my stomach and I will not face them by car again!

A memorable start to the journey!

Tomorrow we walk!

today is the day

Today is the day!!

Six months ago today "I" came up with this crazy plan to walk across Spain for Lent. It felt like a long time then, but now I can't believe how fast and full it has been. The preparation has been as much mental, emotional, and spiritual as it has been physical. And I imagine being stretched in all those ways over the next 52 days. 

I keep thinking back to the mantra we came up with to guide us this year:

Today I will be brave, honor my commitments, explore life to the fullest, enjoy the journey, and take time to selah--pause and calmly praise God for that.

We are certainly fulfilling that prophecy!

Today I feel brave. Today I am honoring my commitment to this journey. I will explore. I will enjoy. I will selah. And it all begins at 3:55 p.m. when I board a plane in Columbus, Ohio, make a quick stop in Philly, and wake up tomorrow in Madrid.

In the meantime, I had one last family dinner, tucked in my nieces one last time, hugged my brother and sister-in-law, kissed my nephew and my boyfriend, took one last walk with Jovi this morning, paid one last bill, saw one last Ohio sunrise, and will have one last lunch with my parents before I say goodbye for almost 8 weeks.

It is my hope that I will be able to continue to blog and update you each day, probably in the early afternoon for you eastern time zone folk (I'll be 6 hours ahead). But who knows what the coming days will hold! Regardless, I promise to walk with you and your prayers. Thank you for walking with me and mine.

Going to miss my walking buddy Jovi!

One last Ohio sunrise

last minute list

Anytime you are preparing for a long journey there are lots of "last minute" things that need done. Packing. One last minute trip to the store. Laundry. Another last minute trip to the store. Eating everything in your refrigerator. Going to the store because you now have nothing in your refrigerator. Your mom reminding you not to forget your passport (thanks Mom!). Figuring out how to use whatever new gadgets you bought for your journey (watch/camera/global phone/tracking apps). Plus trying to fit in time with EVERYONE who is important to you (anyone want to go to the store with me?).

I anticipate coming home from Spain with a deeper appreciation for quality time with the people I love. And with strangers. So I'm really glad that my "send off" weekend was full of quality time. Two couples and 7 children around the dinner table. Dinner out and movies in with my boyfriend. Lots of walks with my dog.

Due to the ice/sleet/snow storm not all of my plans for quality time with important friends this weekend were able to happen. But I am glad that I took time out of packing and going to the store to spend time with the ones I could.

Now if you'll excuse me I have to call my grandma. And go to the store...