Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Day 6

Day 6: Zubiri to Arre - 16.6 km

Alois from Holland: "In all the books I read about the Camino, they didn't talk about how beautiful is the scenery. They talked about how beautiful are the people."

On day 6, I was blessed to have both beautiful scenery and beautiful people to walk with.

Wildflowers are beginning to bloom. The rolling hills are green and inviting. We followed the river all the way, loud and jubilant, full from snow melt and rain.

At times there were as many as 6 of us walking together. Taking turns leading. More often than not in single file. Saving conversation for when we arrived at the next town and the next cafe. Even when we found ourselves separated, because someone wanted a photo or a slower or quicker pace, we still met up at the next watering hole for beer and bocadillas (sandwiches), espresso and french toast, to put our feet up and use the bathroom and get to know each other a little better.

During one of our stops we discovered that we had each come to the Camino alone. On purpose. Jeff from North Dakota even said that he would refuse to walk the Camino with a friend unless they had both done it first alone.

As if to emphasize our reasoning, two German women who had come together sat off by themselves, refusing to join our conversation or even walk quietly with us.

I'm sure they, too, have their reasoning. And that traveling together can be both personally and relationally transformative. But it would certainly be a different experience than the journey I am currently on.

One of my favorite new friends is Vincent from Valencia, Spain. While rolling a cigarette after lunch he muttered in Spanish, "I'm in Spain, but no one speaks Spanish." I laughed. And we became fast friends. He was thrilled to have someone understand him. (It is interesting that English seems to be the default language, regardless of what country people are from.)

Over dinner I learned that he is a widower, and has two sons in their 20s. He has diabetes and his doctor prescribed him to walk. He has walked sections of the Camino before, losing over 150 pounds in two years, but this is his first time traveling all the way across Spain.

We each have our reasons.

Shelia from South Africa says if she ever writes a book about the Camino she will title it: "It's Damn Hard Work".

I have to agree.

At night when I lie down, my entire body aches. My collarbone is swollen from carrying the backpack. My knees threaten tendinitis and my feet are working towards blisters with each passing kilometer.

But when I wake up in the morning I feel blessed to have this opportunity. And look forward to the beauty of a new day. So I put on my boots. Lift my pack to my shoulders. And walk.


With new friends Alois and Jeff
at a church we visited on The Way
where we left your prayers
and got to ring the church bells!

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