Today was a deliciously short walk. So short I didn't have time to think about my feet or my pack.
We started the day at a coffee shop. Four of us enjoying espresso and bocadillos. My morning sandwich today contained ham, egg, and sweet chili peppers. We took our time. Skipping the small talk for real conversation. Conversation too personal to share here. Why we walk. What we carry with us. Challenges and tragedies that made us who we are. Things only privy to those who walk together on The Way.
The walk to Pamplona was easy. Through city streets all the way. Even across the busy road people would shout to us "Buen Camino!" Have a good journey.
We happened upon a man who claimed to be a pilgrim, walking in the opposite direction. He had a pack and all the credentials, but claimed the bank cut up his credit card and he had no way of getting home to Germany. Two of the guys with me gave him some money. Talking about it later we all agreed we didn't know if he was scamming or if he was legit. But it wasn't important. When you see someone on The Way who needs help, and you can help, you offer it. No strings attached. No questions asked.
Entering Pamplona we visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Real. This Gothic structure was absolutely breathtaking. We spent an hour, if not more, soaking it all in. Touring the museum, examining the details, pausing to pray.
I then went to the Plaza del Toros, where the running of the bulls takes place in July. I was unable to go inside, but the outside reminds me of a baseball stadium. With a bust of Ernest Hemingway out front. So cool to imagine how this university town must be transformed for the one week a year devoted to celebrating San Fermin and the running of the bulls.
The rest of the afternoon was spent writing and drinking espresso at Cafe Iruna, the perfect way to experience Pamplona in my opinion. Despite it being the hours of the afternoon siesta, so many people were at outdoor cafes, enjoying one another and the beautiful day.
By 5:30 it became obvious I wasn't going to walk any more today, so I located the local albergue.
I thought it would be a challenge to sleep in a different bed every night. But so far it has been a joy. Meeting new people. Experiencing the rhythms of living in community. Being offered hospitality and a place to rest my feet and head. And so far, lots of opportunities to do laundry and take hot showers.
The first night I was in a bottom bunk in a co-ed room of 20. The second night in a tent on a mountain. The third night in a room with two double beds and a private bathroom. The fourth in my own apartment. The fifth in a girls only room of 8. The sixth in a bunk bed in a church. And the seventh in a long row of bunk beds with 30 of my newest friends, sharing showers and toilets and nighttime noises.
This, how and where we sleep, is as much a part of the Camino as is walking.
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