At the recommendation of my friend Rachel, Randy and I headed to Grañón yesterday. The Camino is all about sharing experiences, and she had a particularly memorable one in this little town.
We entered the church where she stayed, went up the back steps, dripping wet in our ponchos. A small group of people were gathered. We asked if they had "dos camas" (two beds). They said "no beds", but offered to feed us if we wanted to come in out of the rain. Then pointed us in the direction of another albergue: La Casa de Sonrisas.
Immediately upon entering this albergue I felt Rachel's spirit, and the spirit of the Camino. The door was wide open. The walls a rainbow of colors, paintings, signatures, and inspiration. The name of the albergue translates to "House of Smiles". And we were met with many. Including two dogs, three other pilgrims, Ernesto who runs the private hostel and several of his house guests.
At 8 p.m. we were invited to gather around the table for dinner. A huge skillet of potatoes, peppers, chorizo, and all sorts of other delights. Plus bread and wine and fruit and yogurt.
We shared stories. One had come by tractor from Germany, with a trailer full of tools to help fix up the albergue. Another had walked the Camino four times. One walked last year, and is still angry about the boy she fell for who insisted they part ways after a week lest he fall in love with her. Another is a volunteer hospitalero, meaning he volunteers at an albergue for two weeks, then moves on to another albergue to volunteer there.
After our communal meal we went to the bar together. Meeting up with more of their friends and other locals. The conversations were lively, even if we didn't understand everything that was going on.
It happened to be an annual celebration in Grañón, though no one ever clarified what exactly they were celebrating. Only that we had perfect timing as it only happens once a year. So at midnight we went to the special events for the evening. There was a comedian, at least 75 people in attendance, tons of laughter, and lots of sweet snacks. This was followed by Bingo, but we all returned to the albergue, having had enough sugar and laughter for one night.
Spending time with locals has been a delightful part of the journey. They are so supportive of pilgrims, many having walked the Camino themselves. Introducing us to local sights, drinks, jokes, and cafes. And even walking with us some of the way.
For example, when we arrived in Belorado this afternoon an elderly woman asked if she could help us. I told her we were looking for an albergue. There are several in this town, and I wanted to know which was the best. She refused to tell me, but told me she would walk with us instead. She took us into the town square, pointing out the church, local restaurants, and a nearby albergue. Which I'm pretty sure was her way of saying it was the best.
We took her recommendation and are currently sitting around the table with Italians, Germans, Koreans, and Spaniards, playing cards, reading, journaling, sharing food, and laughter.
Always listen to the locals!
We entered the church where she stayed, went up the back steps, dripping wet in our ponchos. A small group of people were gathered. We asked if they had "dos camas" (two beds). They said "no beds", but offered to feed us if we wanted to come in out of the rain. Then pointed us in the direction of another albergue: La Casa de Sonrisas.
Immediately upon entering this albergue I felt Rachel's spirit, and the spirit of the Camino. The door was wide open. The walls a rainbow of colors, paintings, signatures, and inspiration. The name of the albergue translates to "House of Smiles". And we were met with many. Including two dogs, three other pilgrims, Ernesto who runs the private hostel and several of his house guests.
At 8 p.m. we were invited to gather around the table for dinner. A huge skillet of potatoes, peppers, chorizo, and all sorts of other delights. Plus bread and wine and fruit and yogurt.
We shared stories. One had come by tractor from Germany, with a trailer full of tools to help fix up the albergue. Another had walked the Camino four times. One walked last year, and is still angry about the boy she fell for who insisted they part ways after a week lest he fall in love with her. Another is a volunteer hospitalero, meaning he volunteers at an albergue for two weeks, then moves on to another albergue to volunteer there.
After our communal meal we went to the bar together. Meeting up with more of their friends and other locals. The conversations were lively, even if we didn't understand everything that was going on.
It happened to be an annual celebration in Grañón, though no one ever clarified what exactly they were celebrating. Only that we had perfect timing as it only happens once a year. So at midnight we went to the special events for the evening. There was a comedian, at least 75 people in attendance, tons of laughter, and lots of sweet snacks. This was followed by Bingo, but we all returned to the albergue, having had enough sugar and laughter for one night.
Spending time with locals has been a delightful part of the journey. They are so supportive of pilgrims, many having walked the Camino themselves. Introducing us to local sights, drinks, jokes, and cafes. And even walking with us some of the way.
For example, when we arrived in Belorado this afternoon an elderly woman asked if she could help us. I told her we were looking for an albergue. There are several in this town, and I wanted to know which was the best. She refused to tell me, but told me she would walk with us instead. She took us into the town square, pointing out the church, local restaurants, and a nearby albergue. Which I'm pretty sure was her way of saying it was the best.
We took her recommendation and are currently sitting around the table with Italians, Germans, Koreans, and Spaniards, playing cards, reading, journaling, sharing food, and laughter.
Always listen to the locals!
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