As I made my final descent out of the Pyrenees mountains on Friday, I knew I didn't want to hike the 22 km to Zubiri on Saturday like I had originally planned. I needed time to see how my body had fared the 9 km in waist-deep snow. Time to thank God for keeping me safe, and for the opportunity to explore the Pyrenees as I had so hoped to do in the planning of this trip. Time to reflect on the adventure. Time for selah--to pause and calmly think on that!
So I "slept in" on Saturday morning (8:30 has never felt so good!). Took a hot shower. Put on my least sweaty clothes. Went downstairs (I slept above a cafe) and had an Americano (which I think is Spanish for "Americans who can't drink straight espresso") and a "tortilla" (traditional Spanish breakfast - ham and cheese on a baguette). Repacked my bag. Tied my still-wet-from-the-snow boots to my pack. And had my picture taken in front of a sign declaring Santiago 790 km away.
Leaving Roncesvalles, the Camino wanders through the woods (mostly beech trees) for 3 km before entering the tiny town of Burguete, where Ernest Hemingway often stayed. In one of the hotels there is a piano bearing his signature. Unfortunately, because of my late start, I arrived in Burguete just in time for "siesta", so everything was closed. Except one little restaurant where I was served asparagus with mayonnaise, medallions cut from "el toro", chips (french fries), and the traditional bread, wine, and water served with every lunch and dinner.
Wine at midday is only recommended when you aren't walking far. The 3.5 km beyond Burguete were slow and sleepy, and beautiful, taking me along a cow path, through pastures and woods, over streams, with the Pyrenees still visible in the distance.
I then arrived in the tiny town of Espinal, where I was drawn to the Church of Saint Bartholomew. It was locked tight, but right next to it was an idyllic place named "Irati." I inquired about a room. An apartment, the woman said. 25 euros. I would only pay 10 at a hostel, but felt like I deserved an upgrade for the night. I assure you it is worth it!
Not only do I have my own room, and shower, and living room, and kitchen. But I also have access to a washer and dryer! I have never been so thankful to be able to wash and dry my clothes! As I write this I am wearing a dress--the only piece of clothing I have that is still clean--while my sweat and snow soaked clothing gets washed.
Meanwhile, I have taken time to celebrate the adventure in the Pyrenees. Looking up at the mountains in the distance I keep thinking, "I did that! Me!!" It is definitely among my most challenging accomplishments to date.
My legs are a little sore, especially the hip flexors (from yanking my legs out of the snow with every step!), but they actually feel better when I'm walking. So I am confident that I'm ready for the 16 km to Zubiri I have ahead of me. Because tomorrow, once again, we walk!
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